Raffi Boyadjian | The All-New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition for No Time to Die

The new James Bond movie, No Time To Die, will hit theaters later this year. It’s both the 25th Bond movie and Daniel Craig’s final appearance as 007. The film marks the end of an era, both in terms of the actor and his custom watches. For No Time To Die, Omega has introduced the brand new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. As with any new Bond watch, it has people talking.

Ever since Pierce Brosnan’s debut as James Bond in 1995’s GoldenEye, Omega has been the franchise’s official watch partner. Before we get to the latest model, let’s take a quick look at the partnership’s history.

The Iconic Blue Omega Bond Watch | Raffi Boyadjian

In GoldenEye, Pierce Brosnan dons a blue Omega Seamaster Professional 300M. The same timepiece appears in all four of his Bond movies, catapulting it into icon status. Beyond new technology and a few cosmetic tweaks, the Omega Seamaster Professional 300M remained largely the same throughout Brosnan’s 7-year tenure as 007 between 1995 and 2002.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 2541.80.00

A New Direction in the Daniel Craig Era

Daniel Craig made his first appearance as Bond in Casino Royale (2006). This was also the start of many changes to Bond watches. In the spectacular opening scene, Craig has on an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. However, for the rest of the movie, Craig sports the familiar blue Seamaster Professional 300M.

In the next two movies — Quantum of Solace and Skyfall — Bond relies on the Seamaster Planet Oceanand the Seamaster Aqua Terra, respectively. While in Spectre, 007 returns to the Seamaster 300M, this time with a more classic style than its predecessor.

Omega Seamaster 300M in Spectre

The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

That brings us to the latest Bond watch: the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition as seen in No Time To Die. While it is another Seamaster Diver 300M, it lacks the blue color scheme found on previous models. Omega developed this special-edition timepiece in cooperation with Daniel Craig. Craig is a dedicated watch enthusiast and provided input on what he wanted to wear in his final Bond appearance. The result is the epitome of what a Bond watch should be.

A Retro Design | Raffi Boyadjian

I had the pleasure of trying on the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition back in December, and I have to say, I was very impressed. When I saw the pictures after the announcement, I thought it looked very nice, but it didn’t really wow me. However, as soon as I saw the watch “in the metal,” I was floored by its clean design and incredible wearability.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, Ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001

The new 007 Edition has clear roots in vintage military watches. Thanks to its mesh bracelet and combination of tan luminous material with a matte brown dial and brown bezel, you’d be forgiven for thinking this timepiece really is military-issue. Pictures truly do not do this watch justice. All I can say is that seeing is believing — this isn’t your grandfather’s wristwatch.

A number of details help this special-edition Seamaster stand out from the rest of the collection. First, the brown dial and bezel have a matte finish instead of the glossy finish found throughout the Seamaster line. This results in a beautiful contrast between the brown elements and “tropical” tan numerals, hands, and indices. Secondly, the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition lacks a date display at 6 o’clock — a common feature on standard-edition Seamasters. And lastly, you won’t find a wave pattern on the Bond watch’s dial.

Another interesting detail on this 007 edition is the Broad Arrow symbol at 6 o’clock, marking this timepiece as property of the British government. Of course, this is a reference Bond’s role as a government agent in the double-0 program. The same symbol is engraved on the case back, along with a military-style serial number. While clearly a Bond watch, these subtle design elements make sure not to shout it in your face, and I like that a lot.

The Technology and Materials

This Seamaster 007 Edition features a 42-mm grade 2 titanium case and titanium bracelet, making the watch incredibly light and robust. The mesh titanium bracelet is a true work of art. It’s sturdy enough to keep the watch securely on your wrist yet flexible enough to make it extremely pleasant to wear. It also doesn’t hurt that it looks simply amazing. However, if you’re not a fan of mesh bracelets, the watch is also available with a very nice NATO strap.

The case is 13.15 mm thick and contains the automatic in-house Omega caliber 8806, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. This same movement also powers the black ceramic and the titanium-tantalum-Sedna gold versions of the Seamaster Diver 300M, which also do without a date display.

Wearing The Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

The all-new Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is a very nice addition to the Seamaster Diver 300M line-up. I personally think it’s the perfect Bond watch. Its understated, military-inspired design mean you can wear it with almost anything. When you put the watch on, you’re immediately struck by how comfortable it is.

You can call this timepiece your own for $9,200 on a mesh bracelet and $8,100 on a NATO strap. Unlike many previous Omega Bond models, this Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is not a limited edition, so any Bond fan who wants one can purchase one.Raffi Boyadjian

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Raffi Boyadjian | Hidden Treasures: Vintage Watches from the 1950s

Raffi Boyadjian — The vintage watch market has been heating up for close to a decade now, with prices for popular models surging reaching new heights. However, there’s still a number of hidden treasures to be discovered. In this article, we’re taking a look at the 1950s, a decade that birthed many great vintage watches. We’ve selected three lesser-known models for your consideration.

Raffi Boyadjian | Hidden Treasures: Vintage Watches from the 1950s

When it comes to vintage watches, the 1960s and 1970s are often referred to as the golden era of watch design. But to really understand and appreciate the development of modern mechanical watches, you have to look back further to the 1950s — a decade marked by a relentless focus on improving the quality and precision of mechanical watch movements. The seeds for this development had already been sown in the previous decade, when the extensive use of wristwatches in World War II sparked the need for improved accuracy and reliability. That said, the brands’ ability to really explore this was somewhat limited by wartime restrictions. As the new decade dawned and advances were made in machine tools, companies were able to manufacture components more precisely than ever before.

It didn’t take a genius to see the commercial potential of this developing trend. All the major Swiss houses began focusing their production efforts on manufacturing extremely accurate chronometer-rated models. Contemporaneous advertising also helped fuel public interest, proclaiming the results achieved by a particular model in chronometer tests and independent accuracy trials. The accompanying text provided further information on the latest technological developments. This is a far cry from most watch advertising we see today, which generally features a brand ambassador (usually a celebrity), wearing the latest model and little else.

Vintage Rolex Explorer 1957 | Raffi Boyadjian

Of course, back then, watch brands didn’t really use celebrity ambassadors — at least not in the way we think of them now. While there were movie stars and famous musicians in the 1950s, the real heroes of this era (as far as watchmaking was concerned) were the explorers, scientists, and innovators achieving epic feats and shaping the world around them. Arguably the most famous example of this is the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition. On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully reached the summit of the world’s highest peak for the first time in history.

Rolex sponsored the expedition and gave each member an Oyster Perpetual to wear during the trek. Apparently, the idea was to return the watches to Rolex afterward for extensive testing so they could understand how the movement reacted to the extreme conditions. Hillary supposedly left his at base camp — for reasons unknown. Instead, he wore his own personal English-made Smiths De Luxe. Norgay, however, was wearing his Oyster Perpetual when they reached the top. In the end, it didn’t really matter. Rolex is one of the best marketeers in the world, which is why everyone’s heard of the Rolex Explorer and nobody has heard of Smiths other than hardcore collectors and enthusiasts. That’s not a bad thing, mind you. It just means you can pick up really great vintage Smiths watches for not much money.

Vintage Omega Seamaster 1958 | Raffi Boyadjian

That conveniently leads me to my next point: A number of highly-collectible vintage watches trace their origins to the 1950s. During this decade, Rolex introduced the Explorer, the Submariner, the GMT-Master, and the Milgauss. Breitling debuted the Navitimer, Blancpain the Fifty Fathoms, and Omega the Seamaster, the Speedmaster, the Railmaster, and the Constellation — and that’s just to name a few. But — and here’s the point I want to make — there’s a number of lesser-known examples from what were also exceptional brands at the time that offer great value for money, compelling history, and genuinely cool designs. The reality is, however, that many of these brands succumbed to the crushing pressure of the quartz crisis in the 1970s. As a result, they were either sold off to larger brands or disappeared completely.

Here are three examples with very cool backstories. Due to the inherently shorter lifespans of these brands, finding good examples requires some patience. Although they were generally mass produced, there are not that many in circulation, relatively speaking. Keep in mind that, while these models have their origins in the 1950s, you can also find interesting evolutions of them from later decades.

Vintage Enicar Seapearl 600, 1950s

Raffi Boyadjian | Enicar Seapearl 600

Raffi Boyadjian — Founded in 1914 in La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland, Enicar soon became popular and widely distributed in Eastern markets like Russia and China. The unusual name comes from the brand’s founder, Ariste Racine (Enicar is Racine’s last name spelled backward). After WWII, Enicar began producing its own movements in house, with a strong focus on making reliable yet affordable tool watches. It was around this time — the 1950s and 1960s — that Enicar really hit its stride. As was popular at the time, the manufacturer had its first movement certified as a chronometer by the Neuchâtel Observatory in 1954.

Most collectors are particular interest in the Enicar Seapearl 600, and for good reason. Like a number of other tool-watch focused brands at the time, Enicar wanted to get its products into the hands (and onto the wrists) of explorers and adventurers. In May 1956, Enicar provided Seapearl watches to the Albert Eggler-led Swiss expedition to climb Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest in the Himalayas. Following this successful expedition, Enicar began referring to Seapearl models as the “Everest watch” or the “Sherpa” in their advertisements.

The biggest coup for the brand and model — and one of the reasons why collectors love it today — came in 1958/59 when the US Navy’s Experimental Diving Unit (EDU) included it in official testing alongside the Rolex Submariner 6538 and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC 1. The Seapearl 600 was already in (non-issue) use by many Navy divers at the time due to its relatively low cost and high performance. In fact, according to the 1959 Navy EDU “Evaluation Report 1–59,” the Enicar outperformed the Rolex!

Raffi Boyadjian | Nivada Grenchen Antarctic

Raffi Boyadjian — Founded in the 19th century, Nivada was another brand to rise to prominence following World War II. Again, the company’s focus was the production of high-quality and extremely robust tool watches for explorers. Perhaps the greatest marketing decision Nivada ever made was to produce a watch specifically to accompany Admiral Byrd and the US Navy on their 1957 expedition to Antarctica. The mission codename? Operation Deep Freeze. This was part of a larger initiative called the International Geophysical Year (IGY), set in place by a group of about forty countries, including the US, Soviet Union, and most of Europe in 1957/58. With the shared goal of advancing scientific exploration, these countries worked together to explore the Earth’s poles, climb the tallest mountains, and advance space exploration.

Given brands’ strong desire to be associated with science, adventure, and exploration, it’s not surprising that several wanted to be involved with the IGY. The Antarctic model created by Nivada Grenchen was water-resistant, anti-magnetic, and renowned for being able to withstand just about anything the extreme conditions of Antarctica could throw at it. That’s not bad for a model that looks more like a dress watch than a hardcore tool watch. Upon its successful return, Nivada Grenchen touted the Antarctic’s exploits heavily in its advertising material, resulting in the watch becoming immensely popular.

Nivada wasn’t the only watch manufacturer involved with the IGY, of course. Most famously, Jaeger-LeCoultre sent its Geophysic Chronometer with the USS Nautilus nuclear submarine on its journey under the North Pole in 1958. That watch was reissued by the brand a few years ago and remains immensely popular with collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Universal Genève Polerouter, 1950s

Raffi Boyadjian | Universal Genève

These days, the name Universal Genève is pretty well known, at least in vintage watch collecting circles. This is in large part thanks to Hodinkee’s Ben Clymer, who wrote extensively about the brand’s Compax models when he was first starting out. While those models now trade at sometimes eye-watering prices, it’s still possible to get a great example from this collection designed by Gérald Genta. Simply turn your attention to the Polerouter, formally known as the Polarouter, which was the inaugural model designed by then 23-year-old (and relatively unknown) Genta in 1954.

As SAS’s (Scandanavian Airlines Systems) official supplier of watches, Universal Genéve was commissioned to create a watch to commemorate the airline’s direct polar flights from New York/Los Angeles to Europe. This was a major achievement, as no commercial airline had ever flown over the North Pole. To make it possible, SAS had to develop an entirely new navigation system to overcome the extreme magnetic fields at the Poles. There was also the issue of magnetic interference on timekeeping, including on the watches worn by pilots.

Universal Genève already had a reputation for their work with anti-magnetic timepieces. What they needed was a design that would suitably mark this momentous occasion — and that’s exactly what Genta gave them. The 34.5-mm round case featured bombé lugs and a dateless dial with a textured inner index ring. What really made the Polerouter popular, however, was when Universal Genève introduced its new 215 micro-rotor movement — among the first of its kind — in 1955. With lots of variations to choose from, the Polerouter is a great and remarkable affordable option from this storied brand.

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Raffi Boyadjian | Richard Mille: Why all the hype?

Raffi Boyadjian : As the saying goes, “You either love ’em or hate ’em.” That definitely applies to Richard Mille and their watches. But is it really that black and white? Nearly everyone I know has an opinion about this brand: I often hear people refer to Richard Mille as (too) loud, (too) colorful, and (too) expensive in one breath, and then as innovative, desirable, and successful in the next. Clever marketing has earned this luxury watch brand plenty of attention. So, how much technical innovation and character are hiding behind the marketing hype?

Richard Mille RM11–03 | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian | The Story Behind Richard Mille

Raffi Boyadjian — Perhaps unsurprisingly, the man behind Richard Mille is none other than Richard Mille. Born in Draguignan, France in 1951, he began his career not as a watchmaker but rather working on the marketing and management teams of various luxury brands. These included, among others, the watch division of the company Matra and its brands, such as Yema. Seiko acquired Matra in 1974, and Mille later moved on to jewelry company Mauboussin in 1992. In 1999, he ultimately decided to found his own watch brand together with his friend and business partner, Dominique Guenat. Guenat was himself owner and CEO of the watch manufacturer Valgine. To this day, the company Guenat S.A. Montres Valgine still supports the development, production, and distribution of Richard Mille watches. In 2001, two years after being founded, the brand launched their first watch, the RM 001. But more about that later!

The Company | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — The structure of Richard Mille is about as complex as the watches themselves. Several other companies hold shares in the business and are active in its operation to varying degrees. Aside from Guenat S.A. Montres Valgine, it’s also worth mentioning ProArt SA, who supply Richard Mille with certain watch components (including cases, bridges, and pushers). For most of their automatic and chronograph movements, Richard Mille collaborates with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. It’s also interesting to note that Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi has invested in Richard Mille as well. This partner is particularly advantageous due to their highly complex movements, including tourbillons.

In short, instead of developing their own cozy production house (as the Swiss industry tends to romanticize), Richard Mille is based on cooperation with specialists — surely a point of criticism for many. But it’s all part of a clear strategy, as laid out on Richard Millle’s official website: “For a long time, I wished to launch my own brand. I wanted to create a new business model, far removed from traditional marketing strategies, something totally original […]”. Being different and having this special business model are central to the brand’s identity. In 2018, the Richard Mille Group employed around 148 people and, according to various sources (including the FHH Journal), had a total turnover of around 300 million CHF. For reference, Audemars Piguet raked in $937 million USD that same year, according to Statista. That’s the equivalent of roughly 915 million CHF.

Raffi Boyadjian | The First Richard Mille Watch

Two years after the company’s foundation, Richard Mille released their first watch. It demanded a six-figure price of $135,000 as soon as it hit the market. That’s a lot of money for what initially appeared to be a sport watch with, believe it or not, a “thing” on the open dial that looked like a tourbillon. Using the terms “sporty” and “tourbillon” in a single breath to describe a watch was previously unheard of and justifiably raised some eyebrows.

Tourbillons are not really made for action-packed lifestyles. The combination of a heavy timepiece with highly fragile components make every impact a stress test. However, none of that matters for the RM 001. Its manual movement was conceived separately from the case and seems to float inside of it without any connection. Outfitted with a bridge made of carbon and carbon fibers, the movement is absolutely shock resistent.

In this regard, the RM 001 was truly revolutionary, and of course, it was strictly limited. Specialists rightly paid a lot of attention to its futuristic design, composed of a barrel-shaped case with eight screws on the bezel and a visible movement. Richard Mille himself described the watch as “one [of] the greatest revolution[s] of its time in watchmaking history.”

Raffi Boyadjian | Why all the hype?

Raffi Boyadjian — “Richard Mille cost a Lambo,” observed US rapper Meek Mill in his song “Going Bad” — and he’s not the only one to notice. No matter what you think of their strategy, the brand has achieved what others can only dream of. In some circles, it is on its way to achieving “cult” status. For example, both my 12-year-old cousin as well as my father, who has absolutely nothing to do with watches, have already heard of Richard Mille. A German Google search for “Richard” produced the following suggestions: Richard Mille price, Richard Mille Nadal, Richard Mille Drake, Richard Mille Odell Beckham. It’s also interesting to see which countries most frequently search for the brand: Singapore, the UAE, and Switzerland. On that note, let’s take a closer look at a few key aspects of the brand’s success!

Point 1: The Price | Raffi Boyadjian

The second half of the aforementioned Richard Mille quote continues: “[…]My goal was to create a new, ultra-high-end luxury segment within the high-end watch business[…].”So the price is a part of what makes up the brand’s individuality. One might even dare to say that Richard Mille created a completely new category/market through price politics, the same way Audemars Piguet once did with the Royal Oak. This strategy sees them with very little competition. Based on optics, Hublot would be a natural enemy of Richard Mille, but even models like the Big Bang Tourbillon sell for AS LOW AS $63,000. Richard Mille uses high price tags so that their customers belong to an even smaller, more elite group within the luxury watch segment — extreme luxury, “the billionaire’s secret handshake,” if you will.

Of course, the price goes hand in hand with limited availability. According to various sources, Richard Mille’s annual production lies around 5,000 watches. In comparison, Audemars Piguet produces about 31,000 watches in the same timeframe. By comparison, that’s basically mass production. The entry-level Richard Mille timepiece starts around $80,000 USD (list price). The most expensive watch in their current portfolio is the RM56–02 Sapphire. It demands a list price of roughly $2,000,000. Even though the typical Richard Mille buyer might not worry about value retention, let’s take a look at the two most popular Richard Mille models in 2019 based on Chrono24 search volume: the RM 011 Felipe Massa and the RM 035 Rafael Nadal. At least these two watches have performed very positively and proved themselves solid investments.

Number of visitors who accessed Chrono24’s Richard Mille pages via search engines.

Point 2: “Partners & Friends” | Raffi Boyadjian

“A racing machine on the wrist.” That’s how Richard Mille advertises their watches. Motorsport has had a clear influence on Mille’s timepieces with their unmistakable designs and unique materials. Unsurprisingly, Richard Mille often emphasizes his passion for racing and the engineering that goes into it. So, it makes sense that F1 driver Felipe Massa was one of the first partners to be outfitted with a watch. And the best part? He actually wore it while racing, including during a crash in 2014. Luckily, both he and the watch survived unscathed. Today, Richard Mille seems to have the entirety of Formula 1 as partners. Their decision to sponsor the American team “Haas” came as no surprise. Richard Mille watches also make appearances on the tennis court with Rafael Nadal, and on the football field with Odell Beckham Jr.. However, Rolex, Omega, and other major brands are also more than familiar with attracting big-name brand ambassadors. The clever thing about Richard Mille is that their watches are actually worn in competition, thus underscoring their durability. The short-term effect is evident in the case of football star Odell Beckham Jr., for example, who wore a $300,000 RM 11–03 during an NFL game in September. This had a visible impact on subsequent searches on our marketplace:

Performance of the RM035 | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — At least in the short-term, the hype is demonstrably real! The list of celebrity Richard Mille wearers is at least as long as their astronomical list prices: Pharrell Williams, Drake, Bubba Watson, Ed Sheeran, and Jay-Z, who proudly announced on Instagram that the case of his approx. $2.5 million RM 056 itself took 3,000 hours to produce.

Raffi Boyadjian : The strategy is clear, and even Richard Mille himself takes the spotlight often enough, telling his story as an industry rebel. All in all, I think it’s pretty sound marketing — putting watches in unexpected places and using the price as a strong marketing tool. The brand is able to get its message out without using too many words. The mere presence of that flashy bling on the field sometimes causes us to lose sight of the ball as we focus purely on the player’s wrist. After that comes the googling, astonishment at the price, and the chat with friend about that crazy expensive timepiece.

This marketing is particularly effective with younger generations. People under the age of 35 are responsible for 60% of the searches for Richard Mille on Chrono24. This is likely because displays of luxury is encouraged on Instagram and other social networks. On blogs like Highsnobiety and Hypebeast, Richard Mille looks a lot better paired with Off-White sneakers and Supreme hoodies than a Grand Seiko does. In these circles, even Rolex is being ousted by brands like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. A Rolex might still have a certain outsider chance, but only if it’s “iced out” with diamonds.

So, is Richard Mille’s clever sponsoring and media buzz really enough to beat all the “old” brands when it comes to the cold, hard numbers? Probably not. But, in order to set themselves apart, those who can afford a Richard Mille also want the world how much their watch is worth.

Raffi Boyadjian : Point 3: What about the technology?

In case the wearer would like to justify wearing the equivalent of a nice family house with a pool on their wrist, Richard Mille offers all kinds of more convincing arguments than just, “I had the money.” These watches really have a lot to offer in terms of technology. For example, there’s the RM 27–03 belonging to tennis star Rafael Nadal. In this model, Richard Mille uses so-called “carbon TPT,” which is composed of countless wafer-thin layers of carbon fiber. The case back and the bezel are made from quartz TPT, in which thin layers of quartz crystal and synthetic resin are melted together. As for the list price? It surpasses the $800,000 mark.

Another example is the RM 11–03. According to Richard Mille designer Fabrice Namura, this timepiece was developed in close cooperation with McLaren and their chief designer Rob Melville. The goal was to create something more than just an “ordinary watch.” The McLaren logo on the bezel is just a superficial reminder of the collaboration — but it is a lovely detail, reminiscent of the distinctive air intakes on the 800 HP P15 “Senna” sports car. This flyback chronograph has titanium pushers that resemble the headlights of the famous 720S. It’s definitely a watch with “flex appeal.”

In Summary | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian : I understand that this brand and the way it’s marketed may rub some people the wrong way. I was initially skeptical as well because, let’s be honest, many of us are guilty of false modesty and are secretly proud when someone addresses our watch and perhaps also the price we had to pay for it. Or maybe that’s just an especially German phenomenon. In my opinion, as is so often the case, you should reserve judgement until you’ve taken a closer look. By doing that, I learned that a brand can turn their weaknesses (the lack of history and tradition) into their greatest strength. Richard Mille doesn’t have to worry about what a conservative and well-established community is going to think when they make major changes. The argument stands about their unconventional development, design, and marketing strategies. But if you go around saying that you’re going to revolutionize the watch industry, then you better deliver. And I think Richard Mille has done that so far.

Of course, that doesn’t mean you have to like the watches and their price tags. The upside to all the Richard Mille hype is that particularly the younger generation may be getting interested in (mechanical) watches again. Similar to the rise of the smartwatches, this could have a positive effect on the watch industry as a whole. And I personally find that pretty cool!

Raffi Boyadjian | Best Watches under $2,000 – Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — There’s a common misconception that, in order for a nice watch to be considered “nice,” it needs to be really expensive. Once upon a time, that may have been true. Nowadays, however, there are a number of watches available from a range of reputable brands both big and small that offer great value for the money and come with some serious street cred. With that in mind, in no particular order, here are some of the best watches on the market for less than $2,000. Whether you’re buying your first watch or are just value-conscious, you’re sure to find something that suits your taste and budget.

Raffi Boyadjian | NOMOS Club Campus 38

Nomos Club Campus 735 — View offers on Chrono24 | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — Despite being a relatively small, independent watch manufacturer based in Glashütte, Germany, NOMOS has managed to become a worldwide sensation. This is thanks, in large part, to the brand’s commitment to building high-quality mechanical watches with in-house calibers and selling them at reasonable prices. Club Campus series is a perfect example, with the Club Campus 38 officially retailing for $1,650. This’ll get you a polished 38.5-mm steel case that houses one of NOMOS’ own calibers, the Alpha. This manual movement displays the time (including seconds) and can run for around 2 days before needing to be wound again. You can also buy this piece directly from the manufacturer in Chrono24’s Brand Boutique.

Raffi Boyadjian | Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph

Raffi Boyadjian | Longines Column Wheel Chronograph — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : Introduced in 2011, the Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph made waves by offering a highly coveted complication at a very affordable price. Up until that point, column-wheel chronographs had most mostly been reserved for high-end watches with 5 or 6-figure price tags. Even now, 8 years later, the Longines Column-Wheel Chronograph is still considered a great watch for the money. While it’s official list price sits just over $2,000, there are a number of great pre-owned options available on Chrono24 for under that price point.

Raffi Boyadjian | Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Raffi Boyadjian | Oris Big Crown Pointer Date — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian — Oris is another one of those under-the-radar brands that offers great watches for relatively little money. Launched in 1938, the Big Crown Pointer Date celebrated its 80th birthday in 2018 and is still going strong. As the name suggests, it features a large crown, making it easier for pilot’s wearing heavy gloves to operate, and a classic time display with a pointer date. Even after all these years, it remains a significant model for Oris and one that is popular among watch and aviation enthusiasts alike.

Raffi Boyadjian | Seiko Presage Automatic Chronograph

Raffi Boyadjian | Seiko Presage Automatic Chronograph — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : In recent years, Japanese watch manufacturer Seiko has been highly successful in promoting its more luxurious collections, such as the Presage. Part of the company’s strategy has been to create modern-day versions of classic models. That’s what it did in 2016 with the limited-edition Seiko Presage Automatic Chronograph SRQ019. At the time, the brand was celebrating the 60th anniversary of Seiko’s first automatic mechanical watch from 1956. To mark the occasion, they created this gorgeous model with an enamel dial inspired by a Seiko Laurel watch from 1913.

Raffi Boyadjian | Mido Multifort Escape

Raffi Boyadjian | Mido Multifort Escape — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : If you want to get in on the vintage-inspired watch trend, the Mido Multifort Escape is a great option for those on a budget. Available new starting at just $890, it comes with a 44-mm aged PVD-coated steel case and a clean dial inspired by the original model from 1934. As an interesting side note, the Multifort was among the first anti-magnetic watches with a self-winding movement. Inside is the automatic Mido caliber 80, which beats at 21,600 alternations per hour and offers an 80-hour power reserve.

Raffi Boyadjian | Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC

Raffi Boyadjian | Tissot Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : It’s almost impossible to put together a list of great, affordable watches without mentioning at least one Tissot. Looking at the Ballade Powermatic 80 COSC, it’s not hard to see why. You can wear it as an everyday watch or even a more classic dress watch and it’ll never look out of place. The 41-mm steel case features a bezel decorated with a distinct “Clous de Paris” pattern, which is also replicated in the center of the black dial. Inside is the automatic Powermatic caliber 80.811, a COSC-certified chronometer movement with an 80-hour power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring.

Raffi Boyadjian | Sinn 556

Raffi Boyadjian | Sinn 556 — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : A no-nonsense tool watch, the Sinn 556 offers precise German engineering at its refined best. This is a watch for minimalists, who value practical functionality and superior legibility. The Sinn 556 delivers this with white, glow-in-the-dark hands and indices that contrast beautifully against the glossy black dial. Presented in a satin-brushed steel case measuring 38.5 mm wide x 11 mm thick, this is a great choice for anyone looking for a watch to wear wherever they go.

Raffi Boyadjian | Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope

Raffi Boyadjian | Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : Inspired by the early days of modern motoring, the Junghans Meister Driver Chronoscope has a distinctly vintage look and feel to it. From the font used for the Arabic numerals on the dial to the twin-register layout for the chronograph display, this is a watch that takes us back to the golden years of the automobile. Its 40.8-mm steel case is comfortably sized and houses the automatic caliber J880.3, which provides this timepiece with its 42-hour power reserve. Protecting the dial is convex plexiglass with a special coating for enhanced scratch resistance.

Raffi Boyadjian | Frederique Constant Classics Index Automatic

Raffi Boyadjian | Frederique Constant Classics Index Automatic — View offers on Chrono24

Raffi Boyadjian : Swiss watch manufacturer Frederique Constant has earned a reputation for classic watches that look and feel significantly more expensive than they are. The Classic Index Automatic is one such timepiece. Intended as an elegant dress watch, its dial features alternating Roman numerals and baton hour markers, leaf-shaped hands, and a central “Clous de Paris” decoration. Inside is an automatic movement, the caliber FC-303, which comes with a 38-hour power reserve and date display.

So, there you have it: a small taste of some the great watches available for around $2,000 or less. There are, of course, a lot more models we could have added to the list, but as ever we are limited by time and space.

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Raffi Boyadjian | What is an in-house movement?

Raffi Boyadjian | Patek Philippe 5327Image: Bert Buijsrogge

Raffi Boyadjian — Sometimes the luxury watch industry seems like an entire universe unto itself, operating in complete isolation from the rest of the world. This is particularly apparent when the topic of “in-house” or “manufacture” movements arises. Nobody seems to know what exactly constitutes an in-house movement. At the very least, nobody can agree on a single definition. Does that mean that in-house movements are just another example of the industry’s famed marketing hyperbole or do they add real value? This is arguably an almost impossible question to answer, but we will do our best.

Raffi Boyadjian — Let’s start by trying to put together some sort of definition if only to give ourselves a reference point for discussion. Broadly speaking, an in-house movement is generally accepted as one that has been developed, designed, and assembled by the watch brand using it. I think you’ll agree that that sounds pretty reasonable, but it still leaves a lot of gray area. For example, even fairly basic automatic watch movements (e.g., simple three-handers) are made up of hundreds of components. Do all of these need to be manufactured “in-house” for the movement to qualify?

Many of these components, such as hairsprings, are too specialized (i.e., expensive) for most watch brands to manufacture in large quantities. Instead, they are often bought from third-party suppliers, some of whom make these items in Switzerland (or Germany), while others make them farther East. The origins of individual components in a movement are not generally disclosed by brands, so it’s basically impossible to know as an outsider what’s been made in-house and what hasn’t. Even the highly prized “Swiss Made” designation only requires that 60% of the manufacturing costs and the essential manufacturing steps occur in Switzerland.

Grand Seiko — View offers on Chrono24Image: Bert Buijsrogge | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — Then comes the added complexity of watch brands that have their own designated movement manufacturers. For example, Breguet owns Nouvelle Lemania SA and Blancpain owns Frédéric Piguet SA. When the movements manufactured by these companies are used by their respective owners, they are referred to as “in-house.” Confusingly, though, these movement manufacturers also supply movements to other brands as well. These are often referred to as an ébauche (the watchmaking term for the basic movement parts, such as the movement plates, bridges, and mainspring barrel). These base movements are then “finished” in-house by the respective brand and will likely be relabeled with a brand-specific designation that may or may not include a reference to the base movement.

Raffi Boyadjian — There is also another term, which is similar in meaning to “in-house” but is sometimes (mis)used by brands: proprietary movement. In general, this refers to a movement that has been manufactured externally for use exclusively by that particular watch brand in that specific form. That last bit is important. “In that specific form” means the movement has been designed (sometimes in-house, sometimes not) to meet the brand’s specifications, and, therefore, an identical movement will not appear in another watch. That’s not to say very similar versions won’t appear in other watches, but that’s a different story.

Bremont Wright Flyer — View offers on Chrono24Image: Bert Buijsrogge | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — Perhaps one of the most infamous examples of misrepresenting a proprietary movement as in-house in recent memory is that of English watch brand Bremont. Back in 2014, the company launched its Bremont Wright Flyer and claimed that it was powered by the brand’s first in-house movement, designed and developed in their own manufacture in the UK. They were very quickly forced to walk back this statement when internet sleuths pointed out that it looked very similar to Arnold & Son’s Caliber 6003, which was manufactured by La Joux-Perret.

Bremont clarified that they had indeed partnered with LJP to create the brand’s first “exclusive” movement, that it was substantially different from the Caliber 6003, and that a number of key components had been machined in-house in the UK. Many weren’t convinced, while others were quick to point out that even the brands themselves can’t agree on what constitutes an in-house movement. Regardless, the negative response ensures that this remains a cautionary tale to overly ambitious watch-marketing departments.

Raffi Boyadjian — The reality is that there are very few truly vertically-integrated watch manufacturers. Even those that are (or claim to be) have, at times, opted to use movements either sourced externally or from within other members of their group. Richemont-owned Jaeger-LeCoultre, for example, still regularly supplies movement to Audemars Piguet, and Rolex didn’t use an in-house chronograph movement in its famous Daytona until 2000 (instead relying on Zenith and Valjoux). Creating a watch movement from scratch is extremely expensive and time-consuming (we’re talking years, not months), so it doesn’t always make financial sense to try to do everything “in-house.”

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono — View offers on Chrono24Image: Bert Buijsrogge | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — What about movements resulting from a collaboration between different brands? In 2017, Tudor introduced its polarizing Heritage Black Bay Chronograph. Inside was what the brand called its “Manufacture Tudor” MT5813 movement. Basically, it’s a Breitling B01 chronograph movement with a few a few technical and decorative updates. In return, Breitling got access to Tudor’s in-house caliber MT5612, a 3-hand movement, which they renamed “B20” following some modification. Both are technically “manufacture” or “in-house” movements, they’re just made by companies that have different names than the ones on the dial. Interestingly, both brands were very open about this collaboration, suggesting they had learned from the past mistakes of brands like TAG Heuer and Bremont.

So, the real question becomes: Is an in-house movement better? The simple answer is no, not necessarily. While an in-house movement might give a watch an increased sense of exclusivity, it may not necessarily be as reliable or as robust as, say, a run-of-the-mill ETA (read more about ETA movements here) that has been manufactured in the millions and proven itself time and time in the real world. As with anything, if you’re considering buying a watch with an in-house movement, do your research. Is there any history of issues? Are you just paying for marketing hype? Is it really an in-house movement? It’s confusing, for sure, but it’s also part of the fun of learning about watches!

Raffi Boyadjian | A New Addition to the Prospex Family: The All-New Seiko Prospex LX Series

Raffi Boyadjian — Every Baselworld sees Seiko add a string of new models to their rich family of watches, much to the delight of the Japanese brand’s vast fan base. This year, Seiko announced a brand new line of Prospex LX watches. Other introductions included a limited edition in commemoration of their iconic diving watch from 1970 and a salute to Japanese craftsmanship in their Presage series.

Seiko Prospex LX series | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — One of the biggest news stories to come from the first official day of Baselworld 2019 was the release of the Seiko Prospex LX series. The Seiko Prospex collection dates back all the way to brand’s first diving watch in 1965. Seiko has been a favorite among divers and explorers ever since. In 1968, the brand debuted its iconic Seiko Professional Diver’s watch. It would go on to transcend generational differences thanks to its robust design and functional character. At Baselworld 2018, Seiko announced a Prospex tribute to the 1968 Professional Diver’s watch, demonstrating just how relevant its 50-year-old design remains.

Raffi Boyadjian — That same vintage watch inspired the Prospex LX series. These watches are built for life on land, at sea, and in the sky. Their design puts a clever, modern twist on the timeless features of the 1968 Professional Diver’s. The collection was announced with three base models, all made of titanium: There’s the land version (SNR025) with a GMT function and a compass bezel, the sky version (SNR033) with a GMT hand and a bidirectional bezel for showing time in a third time zone, and the sea version (SNR029) with a unidirectional diving bezel.

Seiko also revealed a beautiful, all-black edition for each of the three base models. These no-frills watches are devoid of color and protected by a hard black coating. Every flat surface has been polished using the Zaratsu process. The sky (SNR035) and land (SNR027) versions come on a leather strap, while the sea version (SNR031) is paired with a silicone strap more befitting of a diving watch. It’s truly a stroke of genius from Seiko, as it highlights just how unique each timepiece is beyond its external design elements.

Raffi Boyadjian — Seiko brought a fresh set of eyes into the development process by partnering with Ken Okuyama Design. Okuyama is a well-known industrial designer who’s made a name for himself in the automotive industry. He’s worked for Porsche and General Motors but is perhaps best known for supervising Pininfarina when designing the now legendary Ferrari Enzo. Together, Seiko and Okuyama decided to lower the case’s center of gravity to make the watch more comfortable on any wrist. Another clever detail is the steeper angle of the upper side of the case, drawing more attention to the Zaratsu-polished surfaces.

Seiko’s 5R Spring Drive caliber powers each Seiko Prospex LX watch. This movement is a perfect fit since it’s already proven its ability to withstand heavy blows and extreme temperatures. The final result is a high-quality, sharp-looking sports/adventure watch. The recommended European retail prices for the Prospex LX are €5,100 (approx. $5,800) for both land versions (SNR025, 027), €6,100 (approx. $6,900) for the sea versions (SNR029, 031) and €5,600 (approx. $6,400) for the sky versions (SNR033, 035). That’s some serious money, but that also gets you a serious watch from the successful Seiko Prospex series. It can be yours after it arrives at retailers in July 2019.

Raffi Boyadjian | Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition

Raffi Boyadjian — Baselworld 2019 also saw Seiko present a remake of the classic Seiko diving watch commonly known as the Seiko 6105. The Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition (SLA033) is a beautiful rendition of the original watch Seiko first developed in the late 1960s. Seiko’s aim for the 6105 was to create a watch focused purely on functionality. One example is the use of a wider case to better protect the crown at 4 o’clock. The 6105’s direct successor is another iconic Seiko diving watch, which many fans lovingly call the Seiko “Turtle” due to its distinctive shape.

Raffi Boyadjian — This re-creation of the original Seiko 1970 Diver’s Watch has been done very tastefully and is faithful to the original design. The only aesthetic difference is the size: The original 6105 measures 41 mm in diameter, while the new SLA033 is slightly larger at 45 mm. Unlike the retro design, the technology is completely state of the art. The Seiko caliber 8L35 ticks away inside this timepiece, which is water resistant to 200 m (656 ft) and comes on a silicone strap.

The Seiko 1970 Diver’s Re-Creation is limited to a run of 2,500 pieces, each of which will be assembled at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio in northern Japan. You can call one your own for $4,250.

Raffi Boyadjian | Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial

The Presage is yet another successful Seiko collection. These watches combine traditional watchmaking with Japanese craftsmanship. At Baselworld 2019, Seiko announced two watches that follow in the footsteps of other Presage timepieces with beautiful dials. It’s time to say hello to the Seiko Presage Arita Porcelain Dial.

Raffi Boyadjian — Both new releases feature dials made of Arita porcelain. Arita is a small town in southern Japan with over 400 years of porcelain-making history. This heritage is reflected in the dials, which themselves are made in Arita. These white dials have a trace of the same blue used in the earliest examples of Arita porcelain. The final result is two stunning timepieces that perfectly blend the history and craftsmanship of Arita with the modern techniques of Seiko watchmaking.

Both watches are powered by Seiko 6R series calibers. The SPB093 uses the Seiko Caliber 6R27 with a 45-hour power reserve, power reserve indicator 9 o’clock position, date display at 6. The other model, the SPB095, relies on the new caliber 6R35. This timepiece has an even more understated design and boasts a 70-hour power reserve. Both watches represent the next step for the Seiko Presage series.

Overall, Seiko’s Baselworld 2019 press conference showed that the brand is as relevant as ever and has something to offer for everyone. However, the true star of the show was the Prospex collection. Both the Prospex LX series and 1970 Diver’s Watch are sure to catch the eye of many watch enthusiasts.

Raffi Boyadjian | TAG Heuer: Precision Timekeepers Meet Motorsport

Raffi Boyadjian – Glorious victory or heartbreaking defeat – it all hinges on a matter of seconds in the world of auto racing. It should, therefore, come as no surprise that there’s a big need for high-precision timekeepers. Naturally, industry leaders have historically turned to Switzerland. Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, high in the Jura mountains, is a brand that is known the world over for its precise watchmaking prowess and cult chronographs: That brand is TAG Heuer.

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Raffi Boyadjian | Men’s Watches — A Simple Way to Add Style

Raffi Boyadjian — When buying a men’s watch, there are many things to consider. Honestly, most men should probably own at least three watches, which we will go over, but the truth is, most men prefer one watch and will wear it regardless of what they’re doing.

Raffi Boyadjian — I am a professional that works in a corporate office building. I own a watch that is thin and blends into my outfit for the day. When I take my wife out to dinner, I put on a flashier watch that says something about my personality. On the weekend, I wear a throw-around kind of watch. One that doesn’t matter if I bang it against the lawnmower or take it into a pool.

Raffi Boyadjian | The choices you need to make:

1) What is my price point?
2) What materials do I prefer?
3) Is this an investment piece?
4) Am I looking for a universal watch, or several depending on the situation?
5) What is my style?

1) What is my price point? | Raffi Boyadjian

Not to say you can’t get a quality watch without breaking the bank, but it’s important to realize before you buy a watch that for anything with some substance of quality, you’re going to have to spend at least a few hundred dollars. Don’t be fooled by “nice looking” watches that are $50. They are junk and will not last.

You can get a decent quality watch for well under $500, but that’s up to you. Watches sell for every price imaginable — you just have to decide where you stand.

2) What materials do I prefer? | Raffi Boyadjian

Do I like a leather band? How about a metal bracelet? Is gold my style, or stainless steel? Am I looking for a jeweled inner working 12 diamond face, or will a simple white dial do the job?

These are questions that one must ask before going shopping. The truth is to all these questions is — yes. Leather bands are great. They can be formal or informal. Jewels are going to be flashy and should be contained to watches that you want to show off — to flaunt yourself. White and blacks simple faces are conservative, while gold is traditional.

3) Is this an investment piece? | Raffi Boyadjian

For most of us, the answer is no. Some watches however, do go up in value. For example, it’s common that a well taken care of Rolex Daytona will hold it’s own and increase in value over time. On the other hand, if you’re watch isn’t a collectible or rare, simply take care of it and know that it can last a lifetime. Perhaps it will be something you hand down to a family member, or use the rest of your life.

4) Am I looking for a universal watch, or several depending on the situation? | Raffi Boyadjian

I talked about my personal situation above, but you must ask yourself this question. If you’re looking for a single watch, I would recommend something conservative, yet fun. Perhaps a TAG Heuer. They are incredibly well built, timelessly styled, and are in the middle-of-the-road when it comes to price. I would choose a dial color that suits you and stick with stainless steel links. If that’s not your style, but you still want a single watch, I would go for a nice brown leather banded watch. Anything else is so situationally specific that it’s hard to wear it in any setting.

5) What is my style? | Raffi Boyadjian

Are you flashy? Are you conservative? Outdoorsman? Cube Dweller?

Whatever your style, pick a watch that compliments it. There’s no need for someone who spends most of their time in a cubicle to have a diamond crusted watch unless that style is specific towards them. Or a farmer to wear a Rolex. Watches should be practical. A nightclub owner wearing a calculator watch simple will not do. You get my drift.

Whatever your style, always comparison shop when choosing a watch. Personally, I’m a big amazon believer. There is almost any watch conceivable there, most backed by full warranties and returnable. What I like most is that there is no tax and shipping generally is free or cheap for a watch. Check my link below for a listing of the top selling watches through amazon and if you don’t find what you like there, keep browsing until you do!

I hope this article helped you some in deciding on what kind of watch to buy. Watches are a wonderful addition to your life and you deserve the best!

Raffi Boyadjian | Our Top 5 Stainless Steel Luxury Sports Watches

Raffi Boyadjian — When it comes to stainless steel luxury sports watches, a few classics immediately stand out. While not all of these timepieces seem truly sporty, the fact that they are made in stainless steel places them in the sports category. Some of the steel watches of this list date back to the 1970s, though a few of the designs are even older than that.

Raffi Boyadjian — While it would be easy to only look at iconic designs that have been around for half a century or longer, we also want to recognize some newer models that we think will become classics in their own right. Future classics are hard to predict, but one thing’s for sure: These watches are made to last. So without further ado, let’s take a look at our top-5 stainless steel luxury sports watches, presented in alphabetical order.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus | Raffi Boyadjian

Raffi Boyadjian — This stainless steel watch is the new kid on the block, having only been presented to the public in fall 2019. Even though it has received mixed reviews, this is definitely a watch to keep an eye on. It ticks all the boxes, and Lange has done a great job with their first sports watch. Even so, Lange and steel is — or was — an odd combination. In fact, the brand had never really produced a sports watch series until now, so it will just take some getting used to.

Raffi Boyadjian — The new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is a stunning watch crafted at the level we’ve come to expect from the German company. The typical Lange DNA is instantly recognizable thanks to the large day and date displays on the outside of the dial. Not only is this watch Lange’s first production model in steel, but it is also the first model to come on their brand new stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment clasp for maximum comfort.

Every Odysseus watch is powered by the brand new automatic caliber L155.1. The movement has 312 components and a power reserve of 50 hours. The rotor reads ‘PLATIN’, as it is made of platinum, and “DATOMATIC”, a reference to the automatic date function. This watch is water-resistant to 120 m (394 ft), which is quite an odd value in the watch world.

Raffi Boyadjian | Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Raffi Boyadjian — This watch requires no introduction. It has been considered an iconic classic ever since its debut back in 1972. It’s hard to imagine that this model has been around longer than I have! Designed by Gérald Genta, this watch has an impressive history. The fact that current models remain so close to the original design says a lot about Genta’s original work. However, his brilliance wasn’t solely reserved for the Royal Oak: He also created the Nautilus, which is also featured in this top 5 list.

Like most of the watches on this list, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak stands out with its stunning design. You can see this timepiece coming from a mile away. The distinctive double-link bracelet is unique and comfortable at the same time. The combination of brushed and polished finishes gives the Royal Oak its own signature look, and wear and tear over time gives each watch a personal touch. I’ve discussed this point with one of the AP designers; some see scratches as damage, while others merely think they add character.

Raffi Boyadjian | Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

Raffi Boyadjian | Bulgari Octo Finissimo

Raffi Boyadjian — While the Bvlgari Octo line has been around a bit longer than Lange’s Odysseus, this watch still falls into the future classic category. Clearly inspired by Genta’s designs, the Bvlgari Octo collection was launched in 2012. It’s not easy to design something completely new today, but Bvlgari certainly did a great job with the Octo collection.

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo’s shape makes it unlike anything else out there. That said, it still manages to be well balanced and extra-slim. If you are a fan of thin watches, the Octo is one to keep in mind.

Some models are just 5.15 mm thick, making them some of the slimmest watches on the market. Depending on your personal preference, you can buy one on a metal bracelet or leather strap. I personally prefer the Octo on a metal bracelet.

Raffi Boyadjian | Patek Philippe Nautilus

Raffi Boyadjian | This is another watch that hardly warrants an introduction. Today, it’s advertised as an heirloom to hand down from generation to generation. However, back in the day, it was (shamelessly) advertised as one of the world’s costliest stainless steel watches. Nevertheless, the Patek Philippe Nautilus remains one of the most iconic steel sports watches to date.

When comparing at the original Nautilus (ref. 3700) to today’s version (ref. 5711), you’ll notice that the changes are minimal. The addition of a seconds hand is probably the most obvious difference. Apart from that, not much has changed over the years, making the watch a desirable classic. The biggest downside to this watch is its lack of availability. If you are able to find one, the price is also a bit daunting.

Raffi Boyadjian | Rolex Submariner

Raffi Boyadjian — Last but not least is the Rolex Submariner. As it approaches its 70th birthday, this sports watch is hard to ignore. It dates back to 1953 and still retains much of its original design. That being said, it has received a few more tweaks than the AP and Patek. However, it only became a better version of itself. If you were considering reducing your collection down to one watch, this would be a strong contender. The Submariner is one of the few watches that I can keep on my wrist 24/7. This is especially true of the current version, the ref. 116610LN, with its micro-adjustment bracelet.

Raffi Boyadjian — This watch is built to last — and it does just that. I’ve accidentally banged my Submariner into things several times over the years. Despite the loud sound and instant panic, it’s never been damaged. This watch is perfect for everyday use, whether you choose one from the 1970s, a current model, or some time in between.

It is a comfortable 40 mm in diameter and comes on one of the best stainless steel bracelets ever made: the Oyster. Again, the only bad thing about this watch is its availability — or lack thereof. It’s frustrating when the watch you want isn’t available (at retail), yet this frequently seems to be the case with certain brands nowadays.

Raffi Boyadjian | Final Thoughts

Raffi Boyadjian — There are so many worthy brands and models around, and this list hardly does them justice. It’s never easy to make a shortlist, and of course, a lot comes down to personal taste and budget. I personally always suggest buying the watch that will make you smile in the long run — whether it’s a cheap plastic watch or a mechanical timepiece. For some of these models, you have to consider whether you’re willing to spend more than the list price on a watch.

Raffi Boyadjian Read more:

Can fashion brands keep up with traditional watchmaking?

Chrono24 Compares: Patek Philippe Nautilus vs. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Value Development of the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Raffi Boyadjian | Watch Highlights and World Premieres at Inhorgenta 2020 — Photos from the Event

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta is the largest watch and jewelry trade show in the European Union and the second-largest in Europe. Nevertheless, this event, which takes place every February in Munich, isn’t well known in much of the international watch community. Coverage pales in comparison to Baselworld, the world’s largest annual trade fair.

Raffi Boyadjian — However, the tables may soon be turning. While Baselworld is losing more and more big names like the Swatch Group (Omega, Glashütte Original, Breguet, Longines, etc.), Breitling, Seiko, Bulgari, and others, the long-standing (since 1973!) Inhorgenta is gaining more traction within the watch industry.

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020, Photo:Zeigr

Raffi Boyadjian — This, despite the fact that the trade show’s focal point has traditionally been on the jewelry sector. However, as mentioned, the landscape of watch trade fairs is in flux at the moment. Shows around the globe are being moved, renamed, canceled, and redesigned.

As a German and European trade show, Inhorgenta could profit from this upheaval in the coming years; especially when media and watch bloggers (like me) can report on the newest developments from German and Swiss watch brands in February — a good two months before Baselworld.

That in and of itself is a good enough reason to attend the fair and check out the new models in person.

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020, Photo: Zeigr

Raffi Boyadjian — In this article, you’ll find updates from: Sinn from Frankfurt, Mühle from Glashütte, Maurice Lacroix from Switzerland (2020’s official partner country), and the Citizen Group from Japan. The latter, which now includes Frederique Constant, Alpina, and Bulova, was one of the show’s largest exhibitors. It’s safe to say Citizen is a big name in the watch industry.

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020: Microbrands, Fashion Watches, and Global Players

Raffi Boyadjian — Before we get to the new releases, I’ll give you a brief overview of the event. Inhorgenta is by no means comparable to Baselworld; their foundations are completely different. Baselworld is first and foremost a luxury watch trade show. More affordable timepieces, if present at all, are generally an afterthought. At Inhorgenta, on the other hand, you could say the exact opposite.

In short, the watches that make it to Basel are typically in the five to six-figure range, while in Munich, most timepieces are in the three to four-figure range. The motto is more along the lines of: Watches for the people, not only for the yacht owners.

That being the case, you’ll have the chance to see quite a few microbrands, fashion watches, small and large long-standing manufacturers, traditional German and Swiss brands, as well as international giants like Citizen and Casio.

Let’s begin with two German manufacturers who debuted a few new watches at the Munich fair. These were more or less world premieres, and certainly among my Inhorgenta 2020 highlights.

Raffi Boyadjian | Made in Germany: New release of the Sinn “Bund” Pilot Chronograph 158

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020 — Sinn 158–5267, Foto: Zeigr

Raffi Boyadjian — The new Sinn Pilot Chronograph 158 is a new limited edition of the legendary Sinn 155. The new model is limited to 500 pieces. A bit of history: In the 1980s and 90s, company founder Helmut Sinn (1916–2018) got his hands on old German military timepieces, serviced them, and resold the Heuer chronographs (Heuer Leonidas SA 1550 SG and Heuer 1550 SG) with a new dial. He called these refurbished watches the Sinn “Bundeswehr Chronograph for Pilots.” Today, these timepieces are coveted collector’s items.

Other similar models followed, including the 156 and 256. There were special editions of the 155 made for the Japanese market, for the retailer Manufactum, and together with the online magazines The Rake and Revolution (Sinn 155 “Dark Star”). All of these watches have since ceased production, which is reflected in the market. Fans of these pilot’s watches will be delighted to see Sinn’s remake of the original “Bund Chrono.”

Details: The stainless steel case is 43 mm in diameter and water-resistant to 10 bar (100 m, 328 ft). The watch is powered by the SW 510, an automatic chronograph movement (bi-compax) made by Sellita. The model is limited to a run of 500, with a list price around 2,900 USD.

Learn more about the original “Bund” watch by Heuer/Leonidas in this Chrono24 article: Special Vintage Watches: Heuer “Bund” Flyback Chronograph

Raffi Boyadjian | Made in Germany: Mühle Glashütte — Panova Gray

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020 — Mühle Glashütte, Foto: Zeigr

Raffi Boyadjian — Mühle Glashütte celebrated their own world premiere with the Panova Gray. It is a very moderately priced entry-level watch, especially compared to other Glashütte-based brands. While other watches from this German watchmaking center typically cost several thousand dollars, Mühle lists this watch at just over 1,000 USD.

For that price, you’ll get a three-hand 40-mm stainless steel watch with a refined automatic Sellita movement (200–1), an in-house rotor, and a patented shockproof swan-neck regulator. Mühle tests their watches in six different positions and, thanks to their self-regulation, achieves accuracy between 0 and +8 seconds per day. According to the manufacturer, this is in line with chronometer standards. Regardless, those are some impressive levels of accuracy.

If the gray dial and orange accents aren’t your style, check out the other two color combinations Mühle has in their lineup: A blue Panova was released in 2018 and a green Panova debuted at Inhorgenta 2019.

Raffi Boyadjian | Swiss Made: Maurice Lacroix — AIKON Venturer GMT, Bronze, Two-Tone, and Skeleton Chronograph

Raffi Boyadjian — There were a few more new releases presented –some two months before Baselworld! Swiss manufacturer Maurice Lacroix unveiled a number of new models “behind closed doors.” According to the manufacturer, they have been tirelessly working to build up the AIKON line. This year will see the release of a GMT AIKON Venturer and a skeletonized chronograph, as well as bronze and two-tone versions.

For frequent flyers: the AIKON Venturer GMT with a second time zone and 24-hour ceramic bezel. Diameter: 43 mm, Price: approx. 2,700 USD

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020 — Maurice Lacroix Venturer GMT, Foto Zeigr

Transparent: the AIKON Chronograph Skeleton with a view of its inner workings. Diameter: 44 mm, Price: approx. 7,500 USD

Raffi Boyadjian — Inhorgenta 2020 — Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer Skeleton, Foto: Zeigr

Bronze Age: the AIKON Venturer with a green dial, green rubber strap, and bronze case. Diameter: 43 mm, Price: approx. 2,700 USD

Raffi Boyadjian — Inhorgenta 2020 — Maurice Lacroix Aikon Venturer, Foto: Zeigr

Balanced: the two-tone AIKON Venturer in steel and gold with a blue dial. Diameter: 43 mm, Price: approx. 2,900 USD

Inhorgenta 2020 — Maurice Lacroix-Aikon Venturer Bicolor, Foto: Zeigr

Raffi Boyadjian | Made in Japan Meets Swiss Made: Citizen Group: Alpina, Bulova, and Frederique Constant

Raffi Boyadjian — Now to Citizen, or more accurately, the Citizen Group. Citizen is arguably a global player in today’s industry, but they are still operating a bit “under the radar.” It’s hard to believe, considering the firm has more than 100 years of history to look back on; produces its own movements (Miyota), which are sold to countless other brands; and even has a Swiss watch brand in its portfolio.

Citizen had a so-called multi-brand booth at Inhorgenta. In addition to their own models, they displayed watches from Alpina, Frederique Constant, and Bulova. Unfortunately, none of these brands had any new releases this year — at least not officially. Most of the watches on display were already well known models:

It would appear this group is saving their premieres for Baselworld. Nevertheless, it was interesting to see the diversity of products Citizen now has on offer, especially in terms of technology and price range.

From the popular, affordable retro watch for just over 200 USD …

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020 — Aikon Venturer Bicolor, Foto: Zeigr

… to a super high-tech watch with the Caliber 0100, which boasts an impressive one-second deviation per year.

Raffi Boyadjian | Inhorgenta 2020 — Citizen, Foto: Zeigr

This impressive accuracy is made possible by an in-house quartz movement. The watches cost anywhere from 7,000 to 16,000 USD, depending on the model and run. Seeing Citizen watches in this price segment may come as a surprise to some watch fans.

It would appear that Citizen is trying to give fellow Japanese brand Seiko — and their successful Grand Seiko luxury series — a run for their money. It will be interesting to follow Citizen’s developments in this price segment in the next few years.

So, that rounds out my personal highlights and impressions from this year’s Inhorgenta.

I will mention that the event feedback I heard from various attendees and exhibitors was largely positive. The show organizers seemed very engaged and motivated to offer exhibitors the best possible opportunities to showcase their brands. Inhorgenta has certainly gained traction with German watch manufacturers who predominantly sell their products regionally. In fact, several have reportedly crossed Baselworld off their lists — for now, at least.

It remains to be seen how much international interest Inhorgenta will receive in the coming years. However, all signals seem to be pointing upwards.

About the Author:

Theodossios Theodoridis, born in 1972, runs the German watch blog ZEIGR. He’s been a passionate collector of timepieces for more than 30 years, with a special interest in vintage watches and chronographs, including the Omega Speedmaster. His collection includes the Moonwatch, Mark II, Mark 4.5, Mark 40, and the Ultraman limited edition. He’s been blogging about since 2013.